Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry Autumn/Winter 2020 collection, unveiled on Monday, February 17th, 2020, was a powerful statement, a complex tapestry woven from threads of heritage, rebellion, and a distinctly modern sensibility. Presented amidst the hushed grandeur of a transformed Kensington Gardens, the show itself was a spectacle, mirroring the multifaceted nature of the clothing itself. This wasn't simply a collection of clothes; it was a narrative, a journey through contrasting textures, bold silhouettes, and a reimagining of the iconic Burberry codes. The show, viewed through the lens of hindsight, also serves as a fascinating snapshot of a moment just before the world dramatically shifted, a collection imbued with a certain quiet confidence, perhaps unknowingly reflecting a world on the precipice of change.
Runway Looks: A Deep Dive into the AW2020 Collection
The Burberry Autumn/Winter 2020 runway showcased a diverse range of looks, each contributing to the overarching narrative. Tisci's masterful blend of classic Burberry elements with his own signature dark romanticism resulted in a collection that was both familiar and strikingly new. The show was structured in a way that allowed for a gradual unfolding of themes, moving from seemingly disparate elements to a cohesive and powerful whole.
The Reimagining of Heritage:
A significant portion of the collection revisited classic Burberry motifs, but not in a nostalgic or derivative way. Instead, Tisci deconstructed and reassembled these elements, imbuing them with a contemporary edge. The iconic check, a cornerstone of the Burberry brand, appeared in unexpected iterations. We saw it reimagined in oversized proportions, incorporated into patchwork designs, and even subtly woven into knitwear. This wasn't simply a reiteration of the past; it was a confident reinterpretation, demonstrating a respect for heritage while simultaneously pushing boundaries. The classic trench coat, another Burberry staple, underwent similar transformations. Traditional cuts were juxtaposed with avant-garde deconstructions, featuring asymmetrical closures, exaggerated proportions, and unexpected layering. The result was a collection that honored the brand’s legacy while simultaneously asserting its forward-thinking vision.
Dark Romanticism and Rebellious Spirit:
Running through the collection was a distinct thread of dark romanticism, a recurring theme in Tisci’s designs. This wasn't a gloomy or depressing aesthetic, but rather a sophisticated blend of darkness and light, a compelling juxtaposition that added depth and intrigue. Black, a color frequently featured in Tisci’s work, played a central role, serving as a powerful backdrop for the more vibrant accents. However, the darkness wasn't absolute; it was balanced by pops of color, often seen in rich jewel tones and unexpected splashes of bright hues. This contrast created a sense of dynamism, preventing the collection from becoming overly somber.
The rebellious spirit of the collection was equally prominent. This wasn’t a blatant or aggressive rebellion, but rather a subtle defiance of convention. The oversized silhouettes, the unexpected layering, and the deconstructed elements all contributed to a sense of unconventionality. The models themselves, with their individualistic styles and powerful presence, further emphasized this rebellious attitude. The collection felt like a statement, a refusal to adhere to traditional expectations, a celebration of individuality and self-expression.
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